Friday June 11, 2010
Camp 42: by the river in the rain (sounds like a sad country song)

This morning we woke, snuggled in our sleeping bags with our down jackets tucked inside to provide extra warmth.  The chill of the air at 12,000 feet made it difficult to start the day too early.  Besides, we were at a bit of an impasse; none of our hiking options too safe or appealing.  We decided not to go back up the mountain to the CDT where the wind blasted us last night, where icy snow fields awaited…one after another on the north facing slope.  According to the maps and GPS we could take the Fish Lake trail out which would drop in elevation and is south facing.  In theory, this meant much less snow and ice.  We packed up and put sheet metal screws in Eric’s Brooks running shoes using nail clippers and tweezers.  A note on Brooks running shoes- not too helpful in snowy mountain conditions.  I guess that’s why they didn’t call them Brooks all terrain Gortex hiking boots.  We continued our adventure as we off-trailed across snow fields and streams to the supposed Fish Lake trail.  The trail was difficult to find and keep track of under the snow so we soon found ourselves 1.5 miles down the wrong canyon.  Plan B was to make it down the canyon to another trail but time after time we got ridged out and we found ourselves on a goat path staring thousands of feet straight down.  Eventually we stumbled onto another use trail, used mainly by elk I think, which in theory would lead us to the top of the mountain and down a canyon that would eventually connect back up to the Fish Lake Trail.  We followed the narrow, steep trail which skirted the canyon and once again, lost track of it in a snow field.  We managed to make our way to the top and found ourselves climbing up and over another “hill” with steep rocky drop-offs on both sides.  The spectacular 360-degree views of snow- capped peaks, steep rugged canyons, rocky ridge lines and grazing elk left me breathless.  We pushed forward, the elk stopping to stare, seemingly confused as to why we were there, but then again, so were we!  The GPS said the lake was just over the hill.  So we made it to the top and peered into an icy lake surrounded by fields of white.  A few stretches of the trail could be spotted switch-backing up to a narrow saddle blocked by a wall of snow at least 20 feet high.  There we sat, bewildered and hungry (oh yes, did I mention we are very low on food?) not knowing what to do.  We had spent 6.5 hours circumnavigating this mountain only to find the route we chose impassible.   I sat staring, humbled, with tears swimming in my eyes, out of both frustration and simply being scared, which takes a lot for me.  Thanks to Eric, I gathered myself and we tried to find a way down.  We slowly descended on a steep snow drift and climbed back up the other side of the canyon to the divide…back to the top of the very same mountain where we had almost been blown off the night before.  Again, we studied the CDT buried under snow, lacking the confidence to march forward so we decided to find another way.  While contemplating our next move it began to rain so we hurried back down the mountain.  The storm moved through quickly and we decided to backtrack past where we had camped the night before to yet another trail that would drop us into a different canyon along the river.  All afternoon we worked our way down into the canyon.  We inched our way across the fast moving river as another storm moved through.  This time it was accompanied by thunder, rain, snow and hail! How lucky are we?  The trail meandered along the banks of the river, fairly easy walking past the occasional wash-out and snow field.  All in all we were thrilled to just be moving in a direction.  At 7pm we realized that we had to cross the river again but this time at a narrow section of the canyon where the water blasted through a narrow chute.  Apparently I wasn’t thinking very clearly as I prepared to cross and Eric looked at me as if I was crazy and said, “There is no way!  If we fall, we are done!”  We laughed, not amused in the least, but we still laughed as the clouds moved in again, dark and ominous, as was my mood.   We made our way up the hill and set up camp just in time for the rain to come again.  We ate a cold dinner and Eric turned on the GPS to see that we had traveled 2.12 miles as the crow flies from where we camped last night.  Sigh.  We shake our heads as the rain pelts the tent harder and harder, we will deal with the trail and the river crossing tomorrow.  For now, it’s time for rest and perhaps dreams of kittens and rainbows and waterfalls made of whiskey.

Snow and mud and mud and snow

Thursday June 10, 2010
Camp 41: Where do we go from here?  12,000 feet

I am at a loss for words as to how our day has been.  We hiked through snow fields, mud and water.  At times we slid straight down the snow and overall it was slow, slow going.  At around 6pm the trail skirted the North side of the mountain at 12,000 feet with a snow drift blocking the way, seemingly impassible with the gear we had.  If we fell, it was a long straight drop, thousands of feet down into the canyon.  We made a decision to go high, hoping to find a way around.  Instead, we hiked to the top and were greeted by high winds.  It took my breath away, my eyes watered and each step took effort and concentration to simply stand up.  We couldn’t even risk getting close to the edge to scout out our options for fear that the gusts would send us over.  The adrenaline was rushing but it was all a little terrifying as we hovered behind a rock trying to make sense of the situation.  We sat there, wide eyed and out of breath as we made the painful decision to head back down the way we came before we lost our sunlight.  Back through the snow drifts and mud, punching through the snow, everything wet, temperature dropping fast…brutal circumstances.  We finally found a place to set up camp and quickly put dry clothes on.  In 11 hours of hiking we only made it about 7 trail miles- unbelievable.  It makes me want to cry! We are beat up and beyond exhausted.  Hopefully tomorrow will bring some clarity.  This is definitely a different trail and it’s only the beginning.

South San Juans!

Wednesday June 9, 2010
Camp 40: Trail Lake

Our day began by crossing the marsh using downed trees.  We climbed 12,000 feet and the views were incredible with layers of snow-capped mountains.  From the ridge we could see for miles, below us the lakes were laced with ice, the snow fields stretched before us and the bluest sky you can imagine enveloped us.  The trail was very unforgiving today, those beautiful snow fields ensured cold, wet feet and we trudged through mud and water at snail pace.  Our trekking poles were a godsend as we punched through the snow and slid through the mud.  We are both exhausted but it was an exhilarating day.  These mountains are rugged and beautiful, so many new experiences.  I simply cannot wait to see how it all unfolds.  South San Juans!!

One State Down!

Tuesday June 8, 2010
Camp 38: Chama Trails Inn
Camp 39: First Colorado camp!

We are camped directly on the trail tonight as we are walking through a section that is closed for logging due to beetle infestation.  There are trees down everywhere and hundreds of snags all around us.  It was tough finding a camping spot without a widow-maker looming above us so we settled for a place right on the trail.  Let’s see, yesterday we crossed over into Colorado!!!  It is very exciting to have hiked an entire state already.  We spent the morning listing our New Mexico favorites as we walked.  We made it to Cumbres Pass which is in Colorado but then we hitched back into Chama, New Mexico to resupply.  Chama is an old divided town, one end is very cute and historic and somewhat touristy with the old railroad running through.  There are several shops, an old saloon, a few hotels and very friendly locals.  The other end of town was right by the Interstate and the people were actually kind of rude.  We didn’t figure this out until too late when we had booked an expensive room across the street from a grocery store.  Our stay was strange and Eric caught a peeping Tom staring into our room from the alley…yuck.  On our way back to Cumbres Pass a lady drove us a mile to the “better” end of town but she had to get back to work and couldn’t take us any farther- funniest and shortest hitch ever!  We sat in Fosters Saloon and had a couple brews and then a stranger bought us a round.  We played pool, listened to the jukebox and then, in a bit of a fog, decided to make our way back to the trail.  After what felt like an eternity, a couple picked us up in their Jeep.  They were awesome, taking us back to the pass even though they weren’t heading that way.  We hopped out with a thank you, grateful for the generosity.  We hiked on and looked up to see a huge bear heading toward us on the trail.  She was grazing along and didn’t even know we were there until we stood and watched her for a good bit.  Eventually we yelled, “hey bear” and she looked up, startled, and bolted in the other direction.  We are definitely in a new state as the snow fields lay before us and the mountain streams are not in short supply.  Our view tonight is amazing and we had yet another awesome sunset and a lightning show!

sunflower
hi: hanging out at the saloon, enjoying good beer and listening to Hey Jude with my love
lo: hmmm….not really

g
hi: great morning
lo: the state of the trail that we are on


New Mexico Favorites:

Breakfast: Pie Town apple pancakes and sausage with huevos rancheros in Deming being a close second

Lunch: Ella’s Café in Reserve

Dinner: steak and burger in Reserve

Dessert: Coconut Cream Pie in Pie Town

Camping Spot: sleeping out under the stars at City of Rocks State Park

Hitch:  Toughie in Reserve and Alice in the Gila (Silver City)

Funniest Hitch:  the 1 mile hitch in Chama

Towns: Reserve, Cuba and Pie Town

Highlights:  Gila Wilderness, lots of wildlife sightings, the diversity of the state, the kind people and our crazy off trail adventures!

Wildlife: A Wolf and Javelina

Best cold and much needed drink:  Ice cold Coke at Rockhound State Park

Sunday June 6, 2010
Camp 37:  Carson National Forest, North of Lagunitas

Last night we fell asleep to howling wolves and a lightning storm in the distant peaks.  Above us, a clear sky, amazing stars and bright planets, our tent illuminated with each strike of lightning.  Today started out smooth and we were actually on the CDT!  There were cairns and even CDT signs!  Avoiding private land, the trail meandered through beautiful Aspen groves, along spectacular ridges and into a canyon along a stream.  We could see for miles, wide open spaces and mountains in the distance.  We saw herds of elk and antelope grazing and we stumbled upon an elk calf lying right in the middle of the trail.  Apparently his mama sensed danger and he was hiding.  At first it didn’t look like he was breathing as he was very still, his eyes closed.  We knew things were going too easy and soon we dropped steeply to the stream and zigged when we should have zagged!  We took a trail along the stream heading NE when apparently the CDT went NW. Argh!  We followed an old road and had a berm “stylin” contest along the way.  We then followed another road which led to Lagunitas campground and eventually linked back up with a trail that skirted a ridge, giving views of the distant mountain ranges and deep green valleys.  Stunning.  The clouds built and loomed creating a spectacular sunset.  It was a crazy day with lots of ups and downs, but it was beautiful and filled with laughter, and out here, that’s all that matters.  My entire body aches as I lay here waiting for a warm dinner.  We have hereby created a team trail name, “lost before noon.”

Friday June 4, 2010

The landscape is changing before my eyes with each step.  The dry sandy mesa, turning to wide open meadows; green and lush, blanketed with dandelions and larkspur.  A dilapidated house sits among a stand of Aspen, lonely.  Mountains tower to the east and small patches of snow remain beneath the pines just at the edge of the forest.  I can see for miles and miles on all sides as we climb higher.  Clear springs surround us, water plentiful and delicious.  The taste of melted snow is sweet on my tongue.  The ground is saturated and I leave footprints in the mud.  Buttercups and Marsh Marigolds complement the fields of corn lilies.  The sun is slowly going down; my legs move on their own and I don’t think I can stop them.  The majestic snow-capped Rockies are getting closer and my stomach flutters.  We stand silently and watch the grazing elk.  He looks in our direction and immediately bounds up the mountain as three others follow suit.  We set up camp at 10,000 feet and watch the clouds turn orange and the sky fades from pink to purple on the horizon.  We are home, on many levels, we are home.

Camp 35: 10,000 feet with mountain and valley views
Camp 36:  spectacular sunset, major thunderheads in the distance and howling wolves!

CDT truths and philosophies

sunflower and little g's CDT Truths and Philosophies:

1. When in doubt, put on pants.
2. It is possible for a desert thorn to go through your shoe sole, superfeet and sock and stab your foot in a   single step.
3. When feeling down and out visit Deming, New Mexico...there's sure to be a homeless man telling you how incredibly beautiful you are.
4. Sandy dirt roads, desert thorns and bike tires are not a great combination.
5. Keep your receipts and Wal-Mart can be a very effective rental program.
6. If better out than in were a kingdom then Eric would be king.
7. New Mexico is indeed home to some of the most generous and kind people in the world.
8. New Mexico should hereby be referred to as the windy state, it's state flower the Bud Light can and it's state tree the barbed wire fence.
9. Fietenbuttz (German):  the smell your sleeping bag accumulates after hiking 500 miles.
10. A fellow hiker once said that if you collect all of the Bud Light cans in New Mexico you could pay for your entire CDT thru-hike.  Turns out, he is indeed, correct.
11. “Moose poop jewelry, who would wear that shit?”  sunflower
12. There is a reason why everyone else sets up camp around 4pm in Colorado while we are just starting to hike up and over a mountain pass around that same time.  It's called a thunderstorm and really, when will we learn?